Notes on each month.
January: cold, clear and split in two
The first ten days still belong to the New Year, with full hotels, peak rates and festive dinners. From around January 12 it changes: prices drop by 25–35 percent, mornings stay foggy until about 9 AM and the days settle into a clear 16–20 °C. In most years there is snow at Mukteshwar and Chaubatia. Bring a proper jacket, because the nights fall to 4–7 °C. It is a good month for retired couples and for writers who want a quiet room. January is also the month you are most likely to find snow in the hills above, and where to see snow in Uttarakhand ranks the places that get it.
February: quiet and very good value
Days have warmed to 18–24 °C and nights to 7–11 °C, and on most mornings you can see a long way. Hotel rates are about 20–30 percent below the October peak, and this is the month locals quietly recommend to anyone who asks. The one drawback is that a haze starts to build towards the end of the month, ahead of summer, and after Feb 25 it can blur the distant Himalayan views.
March: warm days, cool nights, good for almost anything
Days are a comfortable 22–28 °C and nights a cool 11–16 °C. Holi, in mid-March on a date that changes each year, pushes rates up for a week, although the festival itself is mostly a single public holiday. At Corbett this is the best time for safaris, as the forest cover thins. If you are combining the two, read our guide to Haldwani hotels for Corbett visitors as well.
April: the heat begins
The days warm up quickly, to 28–34 °C, and the city is uncomfortable by 11 AM. The plan is simple: reach Haldwani in the morning and move on to Nainital or Bhimtal the same afternoon. Hotel rates jump after Apr 10, when families start booking for the school holidays. If you are staying in town, put reliable AC and a pool at the top of your list.
May: a month to pass through
Days reach 32–38 °C, the air before the monsoon is sticky, and there is no relief until you climb. Unless a wedding or a family occasion brings you here, do not plan a trip centred on Haldwani in May. Treat the city as an overnight stop after the train and head for the hills the next morning. For the cheapest stay that is still comfortable, see hotels near Walkway Mall, where mid-range hotels have AC and the mall is close by for a late dinner.
June: the school holiday peak
This is the most expensive month of the year for hotels in Nainital and the second most expensive in Haldwani. Schools all over India are closed, demand shoots up and the humidity builds ahead of the monsoon, while the wedding season takes a quiet break. Be aware that the Kainchi Dham foundation-day bhandara, held on the fixed date of 15 June, draws enormous crowds, and you should not try to visit Kainchi Dham that day; choose another day or another week. If the bhandara is the reason for your trip, the foundation day traffic plan explains where you will be made to park and how the shuttles run. Our Kainchi Dham travel guide has the full timings for the day of your visit.
July: the monsoon arrives in force
This is when the rain is heaviest. The city itself rarely floods, but landslides close NH 109 at Bhowali and the Mukteshwar road 2–5 times during the month, and cab drivers will not promise timings for day trips. Hotel rates fall by 35–45 percent. If you already know the region and can live with changed plans, Kumaon in the wet monsoon is truly beautiful, but first-time visitors should not choose this month.
August: the cheapest month
Rates are at their lowest, often 40–50 percent below the peak. The sky clears in patches and the rain becomes easier to predict, falling as afternoon showers rather than all day. The Independence Day weekend brings a small rise in prices. The Nanda Devi Mela in Nainital, from late Aug to early Sep, is the cultural high point of the Kumaon year if you are interested in the region’s rituals and music.
September: the quick change
The first two weeks are still wet, and the last two are when Kumaon changes. By Sep 20 you can see a long way again, yet rates stay low because most travellers have not noticed that the season has turned. Year after year, the week of Sep 22–30 gives the best value for money in the whole calendar, so make the most of it.
October: the safest choice
If you can travel only once and want to be sure, pick October. Days are 24–29 °C and nights 14–19 °C, the weather is dry and clear, and the hills are still green from the monsoon. The catch is Diwali, so book for the first two weeks of October or for after Nov 5, and avoid Diwali week itself unless the festival is the point of your trip.
November: postcard weather and the wedding rush
Days cool to a perfect 22–26 °C, nights drop to 9–14 °C and the views are excellent. The catch is that Haldwani’s wedding season is at its height. Banquet halls are booked 6–8 months ahead, rooms in the wedding hotels vanish at weekends, and traffic to the popular venues thickens in the late afternoon. Stay Tue–Thu if you can, as the city is back to normal on weekdays.
December: cold and clear, with a New Year rush
Days are 18–22 °C, nights 6–10 °C, and it does not rain. The first three weeks are quiet; then the New Year crowds arrive, around Dec 26–Jan 2, and hotel rates double. For a last-minute trip, the last week of December is the worst value of the whole year, so if December is your only chance, book by October. Families love this month for weather that is cold without being snowy, and for the clear day trips to Bhimtal and Nainital.
Going up into the hills in the cold months? Nainital in November covers the driest month on the lake, and Uttarakhand in winter shows where snow actually fell in each of the last three winters, which honestly answers the question of a January day trip to the snow. If snow is what you want, our Nainital snowfall guide explains which weeks give you the best chance and how to catch it on a day trip from Haldwani.